Full grain leather treated with vegetable oils and tannins, which we use in manufacturing of our leather goods, is a very durable and long-lasting product, but at the same time extremely delicate when it comes to processing it with various tools and machines. In the text below, we will look at some of the main manufacturing processes used in our production facility.
As the name itself (‘saddle’) suggests this technique of sewing leather originated from the ancient masters in the manufacture of saddles for horsemen. What is specific about such technique is that it can only be done by hand and modern conventional sewing machines cannot be adapted to it. Therefore, we use the saddle stitch technique where two needles are used simultaneously with a single piece of thread. Unlike a machine stitch, where each stitch is a twist of two threads, in a saddle stitch each stitch is a knot. For this reason, in the event of a torn seam, it will not untick (as happens with our clothes when we see a sagging threadlet). Saddle stitch allows the use of thicker threads, which makes the seam a hallmark of the hand-stitched product. Unlike machine stitching, where are used threads as thin as possible and merging with the color of the product (similar to manufacturing clothes), the manual saddle stitch gives an excellent accent of the product. For this reason, very often there are chosen threads that are a shade different from the main color of the product.
Saddle stitch is the slowest and most delicate operation in our manufacturing process. We are convinced that saddle stitch technique adds a detail of completeness and elegance that we strive to embody in each of our products.
Polishing the edges
Vegetable-tanned, full grain leather is a “living” material. It retains many of the natural oils and materials with which it is processed. For this reason, it is the only leather that allows you to polish its edges without the use of synthetic agents, polymers and chemicals. Each of the products we manufacture undergoes a 3-step manual process of edge polishing.
Cutting and shaping
As we do not use polymers in our manufacturing process to finish the edges of our products, all layers of the product must be perfectly aligned. For this purpose, we cut, align and shape the edges of our items by hand. This is a precise process on which depends the perfect finish of the product. Each angle of our products is shaped by hand and this can be seen on closer inspection, although initially all the angles look identical.
Due to the nature of our raw materials and products, we manufacture all our products almost entirely by hand. Manual work represents more than 95% of our entire manufacturing process. We use machines in only two of the operations, and namely in:
1. sewing the underside of the inside pockets of our wallets by using a sewing machine.
2. thinning of the edges of the leather with the help of a machine specially designed for this purpose.